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So, you’ve got a shirt without a button and need to sew one on. And yes, you probably should know how to do that already, but somehow, you never quite learned, and now you’re putting it off. Wandering around with your shirt safety-pinned together, thinking, I really should do something about that. Well, today, my friend, is that day. Because here’s the secret: sewing a button back onto a shirt is easy. But doing it well? That requires a little bit of skill. We want a button that stays put for years, not hours. A button that slips effortlessly in and out of the buttonhole, without a struggle. So if you’re ready to learn how to do it the right way, let’s get cracking. From now on, you’ll be able to rescue all your favourite shirts, jackets, and trousers from a lifetime in the repair pile. Or worse, the bin. In this guide, we’ll walk you through exactly how to sew on a 4-hole button using the crossover stitch method. AKA the superior technique for strength, neatness, and keeping things consistent with the rest of your garment.
What You’ll Need
- Thread that matches your garment (about 24 inches)
- Needle
- Scissors
- Toothpick, pin, or another small object to create a thread shank
- The button you want to sew on
- Your garment
Step 1: Check the Original Button Placement
Before you sew, take a look at the rest of the buttons on your garment, so you can best replicate how they’re sewn on. Check what direction the threads are sewn (are they crossed over, or parallel?) and how the buttons are positioned. This is the best way to be sure you’re doing a professional-level job.
Carefully remove any loose threads or remnants of the broken button using your fingers or a small pair of embroidery scissors. Nail scissors will do the job just fine in a pinch.
Step 2: Prepare Your Thread
Cut a long piece of thread - around 24 inches is perfect - and thread it through your needle, bringing the two loose ends together. If your fingers aren't exactly built for fiddly jobs, do yourself a favour and grab a needle-threader. You can pick one up from any haberdashery shop for under £3, and it’ll save you hours of frustration.
Tie the loose ends together in a secure double knot to create a strong, doubled-up thread that won’t slip or snap while you sew.
Step 3: Mark the Button Placement
Use the existing stitch holes as a guide, and push your needle from the back of the fabric to the front, right where the original button was placed. Pull the thread almost all the way through, then make a small "X" with your stitches to clearly mark the spot where the new button will sit.
Step 4: Position the Button
Now place the button over the X mark, and insert your needle through one of the button holes from the back of the fabric.
Hold the button steady with your fingers to keep it in place. It might be a bit fiddly, but it’ll help make sure your stitches stay neatly where they’re meant to be.
Step 5: Add a Spacer
Lay a toothpick, pin, or needle across the button, positioned between the holes. This creates a small gap (called a shank) between the button and the fabric, giving the button a little bit of wiggle room so that when it’s fastened, there’s space for the other layer of fabric to sit comfortably underneath.
Skip the spacer, and you risk putting extra strain on the button when it’s closed, making it much more likely to pop off again.
We definitely don’t want that.
Step 6: Start Sewing
Pull the needle across the spacer and insert it down through the hole opposite the one you just came through.
Continue sewing in a criss-cross pattern if your original buttons use the crossover method, or in straight parallel lines if that’s what the other buttons are doing.
The key is to match the stitching style so everything looks intentional and uniform - but hey, if you want to go off-piste for this one, you do you.
Repeat this process, passing the thread through each set of holes three times, pulling it taut with each stitch to keep the button secure and sitting snugly against the spacer.
Step 7: Create a Thread Shank
Once the button is securely attached, carefully remove the spacer. Then, wrap the thread firmly around the base of the button six times to create a strong shank. Now, this might feel like an unnecessary extra step, but trust us, it’s the difference between a button that lasts and one that’s hanging off after a few wears.
Step 8: Secure the Thread
Push the needle through to the back of the fabric and tie a simple overhand knot to secure the thread.
Give it a little pull to make sure it’s secure, then trim off any excess.
You’ve Finished!
Congratulations, you’ve successfully sewn on your 4-hole button using the crossover stitch method.
This one is the classic button-hole technique, and it will give you a sturdy, functional button that looks just like the ones done by the professionals, every single time. Get the thread colour right, and no one will ever know it was missing in the first place.
Part of our commitment to circular fashion is keeping things in circulation for as long as possible. And simple repair jobs like this are what make the difference between a piece you wear on repeat, and one that ends up forgotten at the back of your wardrobe.
Sure, it takes a bit of time and effort, but the more love you put into your clothes, the more you value them, and the longer they’ll stick around.
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You can find hundreds of pre-loved clothes that have been lovingly restored, and sometimes even lovingly repaired, not that you’d notice, over on our website.
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