London Fashion Week has been and gone, and the number of designers who are pushing sustainability might surprise you…

As we’ve seen over the past few years, sustainability is on every fashion brand’s (and fashion customer’s) tongue. There’s been a rise in fashion’s commitment to sustainability, and more recently, circularity. A few ways this has shown in fashion weeks across the globe have been; fashion brands choosing to show their ranges outside of the traditional fashion calendar (thus minimising the number of shows they put on per year), the digitisation of fashion shows, and the setting of sustainability goals for the event - Copenhagen Fashion Week set a three-year action plan to become more sustainable.

So, how has this drive for more consideration of the planet influenced London Fashion Week?

Designers, of course, are the people who make Fashion Week creative and inspiring. We wanted to showcase designers exhibiting at London Fashion Week that we feel are doing the hard yards towards a more sustainable fashion future. There’s a multitude of ways sustainability can be brought to the forefront of a fashion brand, whether it be fabric selection, design choices, supply chain considerations, end-of-life circular solutions for garments, or working with sustainably-minded factories.

Below is a list of some designers showcasing at London Fashion Week, and the ways in which they’re pushing sustainability.

Material selection; upcycled, deadstock, and recycled materials.

Material choices make a big impact on how sustainable a garment is. Plastic fibres, such as nylon and polyester, will last a lifetime, which can be both a good and bad thing. On one hand, this means garments will be with you for the long run and can withstand rain, sunshine, and time. On the other hand, trend-focused garments made from plastic-based fibres that are no longer ‘cool’ after a season run the risk of ending up in landfill, and we all know how terrible that is. Natural or regenerative fibres break down in a much shorter amount of time than their plastic counterparts, but this may not always be what a garment is needed for. For example, a cotton raincoat won’t be as effective as a polyester raincoat.

Ultimately, the correct material selection for the season, trend (or lack thereof), and lifecycle of a garment is incredibly important. What we at Reskinned think is even better is using fabrics that have already been made, so we don’t need to spin any new fibres.

Three methods of sustainable material/fabric selection are; upcycling, using deadstock, and using recycled materials.

Upcycling is using garments that have already been made, and turning them into something new.

Deadstock is “ any leftover fabric that can’t be used for its original purpose or order fulfilment anymore, so the sustainability of the fabric itself comes down to what it is, from viscose to cotton and beyond.”

Recycled materials are materials made from recycled fibres, which can be either synthetic, or natural fibres. Synthetic fibres, such as polyester, nylon, rayon, and viscose can be mechanically or chemically recycled and respun into new fabrics. Natural fibres, such as cotton, wool, and silk, can technically be pulled apart and re-woven back together (this is not as common as synthetic fibre recycling).

Designers incorporating upcycling, deadstock, or recycled materials in their collections for London Fashion Week are:

• Chopova lowena - Based in a studio in South London, garments from this brand are made from upcycled, recycled, and deadstock textiles. Every piece is slightly different, offering a unique, handmade quality to each garment. Uniqueness is hard to come by these days, and Chopova Iowena absolutely offers individuality.
• Ray Chu - A ‘Disruptive, Sexy, A-gender RTW brand’ established in 2016. The brand drives sustainability by working with deadstock fabric, organic cotton, and vegan leather. As well as this, every garment is made to order, meaning there is no overproduction, and no garment is left unsold (and potentially ending up in landfill).
• S.S Daley - This British-born brand uses donated, deadstock and end of roll fabrics for their designs, highlighting that we have enough fabric in the world already, we don’t need to make more.
• Helen Kirkman Studios - founded in 2019, this British-based brand makes new sneakers from old sneakers. They are Made to Order, and customers can even get their own custom pair made, with sneakers they already own. Talk about using materials already in existence!

Designing for a lifetime, rather than a trend cycle

As mentioned previously, designing for trends is on its way out. Trend cycles are moving faster and faster. A traditional trend cycle lasted a few years, but today, trends can last a matter of weeks. Micro-trends, a product of social media, are trends that last for no more than a week or two, and allow fast fashion brands to push overconsumption. This is to say, there is an issue with clothes being worn to fit a micro-trend, with no regard for what will happen to them after that trend has faded.

In response, designers with a sustainable focus are beginning to design in a way that abolishes trend cycles entirely, rather focusing on pieces designed to suit the body, and work with a wearer's lifestyle over a longer period of time.

RIXO’s DNA hinges around the timelessness of their pieces and the cyclicality of them. The founders don’t design with specific trends or seasons in mind and encourage customers to invest in pieces they genuinely love, will re-wear and pass down through generations.

Keeping production close to home

Producing garments closer to home minimises the amount of carbon produced from the product’s supply chain. Supply chains begin at the sourcing of materials (don’t forget that zips, buttons and ribbon - just to name a few - also count as materials, and can come from anywhere across the globe), and lead into the creating of garments in factories, being flown to stockists, and then sold to customers.

Phoebe English is making waves in the English fashion industry. Based out of a studio in South London, every garment is made on British soil. As well as this, the brand is constantly exploring ways to exist as a fashion brand, within the planetary boundaries. They design with the end-of-life of garments in mind, looking for solutions to textile waste.

Working together to create the fashion industry we want…

We love seeing this shift in the industry towards a more sustainable fashion future. What we at Reskinned believe is that sustainability is a multi-faceted problem, with a multi-faceted solution. There are many ways for brands to be more sustainable, there is no one way that is the ‘right’ way. Community and collective action is what leads to true change, and these designers are setting the guidelines of what fashion week should look like.

Reskinned is here to support fashion brands that want to do right by the planet. If you’re a small business or designer looking for a sustainable solution, or just want to have a chat with some people who are wildly passionate about circular fashion, reach out. We’d love to talk. Email hello@reskinned.clothing.

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